Le Fraisier by Stohrer

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Let us prolong the pleasures of a season which is too short by returning to a mainstay of summer months: the Fraisier. The pastry of childhood for many, this comfort food nonetheless demands good craftsmanship, and can easily lend itself to an unsuspected refinement. Let us judge the one offered by Stohrer – the oldest pastry shop in Paris, with a storefront dating to 1730 – which follows this pastry’s classic codes. Continue reading “Le Fraisier by Stohrer”

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Paul Sésame by Colorova

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Few things in life are as dependable as a lemon tart, and few pastry shops dare experiment with modern twists on the recipe, such is the fierce following enjoyed by this classic. But the chefs at Colrova evidently lack neither boldness nor creativity: their dessert – playfully named Paul Sésame – takes the basics of a lemon tart and adds black sesame in various forms and textures. Should we lament this twist or rejoice in it? Continue reading “Paul Sésame by Colorova”

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Summer Mont-Blanc by Bread & Roses

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If there is one summit we rarely hesitate to tackle, it is this one. Delightfully wrapped in chestnut puree (crème de marrons), simultaneously intense and light, so creamy and yet so textured, the Mont-Blanc is often considered a winter specialty. Tragic mistake, for Bread & Roses offers a summery version of this dessert, in which a few changes have been made to the original recipe. Will it convince the jury? Continue reading “Summer Mont-Blanc by Bread & Roses”

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Flaky Brioche with Candied Fruit by Goût de Brioche – Guy Savoy

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At dawn, as the memories of the drunken night start fading into oblivion, we naively cling on to the hope of prolonging yesterday’s now indistinct pleasures. The night has already washed our hearts from the emotions that rocked us, and the new day brings with it promises of new pleasures. It is amongst the aromas of a warm, buttery, crisp pastry that we wish to emerge. And so it is to Guy Savoy’s new shop, headed by the pastry chef Christian Boudard and simply called Goût de Brioche, that we head to start the day, where we chose a flaky brioche incrusted with candied fruit. Continue reading “Flaky Brioche with Candied Fruit by Goût de Brioche – Guy Savoy”

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Raspberry Charlotte by Maison Pichard

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What an irresistible sight, this array of raspberries! On Maison Pichard’s Charlotte, our wandering hands can’t help themselves from snatching a raspberry – and then two, and three. And since they are numerous, we can help ourselves again without causing too much damage. By now this dessert finds itself rather naked, so we might as well dig into it. Half of it soon disappears – but how can we be sure of savoring it properly without having another taste? Now all of it is engulfed, and the verdict falls. Continue reading “Raspberry Charlotte by Maison Pichard”

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