Stepping out of the LA airport, the city instantly takes hold of us and draws us into its tumult. The thermometer goes up, the air is heavy, the asphalt is getting hot. We get on the road and the traffic gets heavier, the streets swarm with people, police sirens screech, everything blends in the uproar rising from the city. Buildings reach higher and higher towards the sky, towers rise next to each other, projecting a power which arrogantly tramples the squalor found below on the sidewalks. Amidst this agitation, we long for lightness and gentleness, and it is for West Hollywood that we set out. We go up Melrose Avenue to taste one of those airy desserts which we are well acquainted with back in Paris. Here they call it a Cloud Cake, and it is a specialty of the Bo Nuage pastry shop.
Similar to what we call a Merveilleux back home, this cake is composed of two meringues separated by a raspberry cream – which in this pastry shop is dairy-free. The same cream is used to coat the whole dessert, whose surface is then entirely covered with minute curls of white chocolate, which are dyed red.
The Raspberry Cloud Cake by Bo Nuage has a diameter of 60 mm and a heights of 65 mm. The specimen we purchased weights 72 grams and costs $6.00.
A discreet raspberry perfume emanates from the cake. We start by tasting the white chocolate confetti found on the dessert’s surface, which give it such a pleasing appearance. The curls are rather thick, which clashes with the sense of lightness suggested by the Cloud Cake’s name. Indeed, they are rather rigid and unfortunately leave a waxy sensation in the mouth. They are quite rigid and we would’ve liked them to be much thinner. As for the meringue, it is successfully made with a crisp exterior and a soft and elastic heart.
A thick dairy free cream dairy separates both meringues. In a pale pink color, it is easy to recognize the flavor of raspberry without it being very strong. The cream seems a little too rigid and unfortunately leaves a waxy sensation in the mouth.
The meringue found in this dainty cloud lives up to the promised airiness, yet the same cannot be said for its cream. We would have liked the latter to be less rigid, fluffier, as well as to have a more pronounced flavor. A raspberry coulis at the center or bits of fruit pulp incorporated in the cream would undoubtedly give the cake that little spiciness which it currently lacks. The white chocolate curls, while certainly making the cake appealing to the eye, also fail to live up to the expected airiness: rather thick, they do not immediately melt on the tongue, and indeed require some chewing. This dessert is interesting, but it seems to us it still has some way to go before reaching the promised cloud.
8010 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90046, USA
Open from Tuesday to Thursday from noon to 7pm, on Friday from 11am to 7pm, and on Saturday and Sunday from 11am to 6pm.
Tel: +1 (310) 880 2065