[Los Angeles] Chapter 1 : Departure / Oh-Oh by Bouchon Bakery

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Setting off on an adventure with no luggage, disappearing without a sound, to escape the present at all costs, and – having found appeasement at last – smiling from afar at those who populated our past, while watching this world disappear in mist, as we pull further and further away from the shore. Is another world, another life, possible? It is the desire for change, the yearning to start a blank page and – yes – to believe that one’s dreams can still come true, which are at the source of all true voyages. Let us escape to the other side of the globe, under the Californian sun, to Los Angeles. Allow ourselves to be surprised by new discoveries, welcoming everything we come across with an exclamation on our lips. And so we start our explorations with this Oh-Oh, selected at Thomas Keller’s Bouchon Bakery in Beverly Hills.

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This cake, which resembles a log, is made of a chocolate cake, spread with vanilla cream, and then rolled on itself. The log is entirely covered in a dark chocolate coating.

Oh-Oh by Bouchon Bakery has a length of 82 mm and a dimeter of 50 mm. The specimen we purchased weights 113 grams and costs $6.00.

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As we open the box, our nostrils are met with the pleasant aroma of chocolate. The chocolate coating is over 2 mm thick, yet remains crisp, snapping easily as we slice the log. It melts easily on the tongue, and has a powerful flavor, though we find it too sweet.

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Underneath this chocolate shell, the rolled up chocolate cake is as moist as desired, slightly humid even. In contrast to the coating, it is pleasantly low in sugar. It is baked uniformly throughout, and has a nice fluffy texture. We inspect it through and through, and find no trace of the cracks that sometime occur when cakes are rolled up.

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Nestled in the cake’s convolutions, the sparkling-white vanilla cream comes off as somewhat bland. The vanilla flavor does not shine through, and it is sadly devoid of the little black seeds which we so enjoy. Given the modest quantity of cream and the discreetness of its flavor, the vanilla aroma goes unnoticed in this dessert, in which chocolate dominates.

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VERDICT

The main element which comes out in this Oh-Oh by Bouchon Bakery is the chocolate cake. It has a pleasant texture, is moist enough to be rolled up without cracking, and holds itself well-enough to allow the chocolate icing to be sliced with precision and without squashing the log. However, we believe a better equilibrium with the vanilla could be reached, by emphasizing the vanilla flavor in order to make felt next to the chocolate. Overall, this dessert remains quite simple and successful, though it could be improved by the use of a less sweet chocolate for the coating, and by a stronger vanilla flavor.

Score: 3.6/5

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Address:

235 North Canon Drive, Beverly Hills, CA 90210, USA
Open every day from 7 am to 7 pm.
Tel: +1 310 271 9910
www.thomaskeller.com

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