A rather unconventional Tiramisu has been located by Cake Justice at the Colorova pastry shop. The fact that is presented in the form of a tart, as well as its inclusion of a few novel ingredients, distinguish it from the classic version. Does this dessert have any commonalities with the Tiramisu familiar to us all, or is this epithet a deception? We investigate.
This desert is composed of a dome of coffee mousse placed on a very thin layer of sponge cake and a sheet of chocolate, which is itself fixed to a layer of coffee cream and a sheet of nougatine (a confection similar to praline made with caramel mixed with crushed almonds or hazelnuts. It is a crunchier version of nougat, made without egg whites). This all rests on layers of mascarpone mousse and coffee cream which are encased in a sweet shortcrust pastry.
The Tiramisu by Colorova has a diameter of 55 mm and a height of 60 mm. The specimen we purchased weights 92 grams and costs 5.50 euros.
We discover on the dome a rather liquid icing characterized by nicely harmonized flavors of chocolate and coffee. The mousse encased inside the dome has a discrete coffee taste, is light and airy, and rests upon a thin, moist sponge cake soaked in coffee. Underneath this, we find a thin sheet of good dark chocolate, which separates the dome from an unctuous layer of coffee cream. Skillfully displayed in an elegant circular movement (a touch which, while it could easily go unnoticed, is highly agreeable), this cream manages to capture the aroma of coffee gently, without aggressiveness. The sheet of nougatine brings just what is needed in crunchiness and helps give texture to the dessert. It easily breaks between the teeth or when the cake is sliced, and releases notes of caramel and almond which remain on the palate. As for the generous mascarpone mousse, it is moderately sweet and has a light texture. It sits atop another thin layer of coffee cream which lines the bottom a pastry shell. Although this shell lacks a distinctive buttery flavor, it has the merit of not being soggy and of being neutral enough in taste to allow the dessert’s numerous flavors to fully express themselves.
Overall, this dessert shares the flavors of chocolate, coffee and mascarpone with the classic version of Tiramisu. Having said that, the reinterpretation work accomplished by Colorova is remarkable, and we are presented with a dessert which is perfectly balanced, whose flavors, textures and sugar content are well thought-out, and which is beautifully assembled. We gladly recommend it and confer upon it an excellent rating.
Score : 4/5 Excellent
47 rue de l’Abbé Grégoire, 75006 Paris, France
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