We’ve known it under other guises, and while we previously tasted it with pleasure, we also left it behind with no regrets. But in our pastry journey, we shall not abandon our quest – for who knows where a thwarted desire can lead to? So let us return to audition an Angel Cake in the specialized pastry shop Ciel – one whose name promises exquisite exotic flavors.
This cake is composed of a passion fruit-flavored angel food cake, a banana-passion fruit cream, Chantilly cream, and a mango-banana puree. It is decorated with dollops of lime jelly, mango-passion fruit jelly, as well as two pink peppercorns and a sprinkling of lime zest.
The Exotic Fruit Angel Cake by la Pâtisserie Ciel has a diameter of 90mm and a height of 53mm. The specimen we purchased weights 106 grams and costs 6€.
The cake gives away a pleasant aroma of mango and exotic fruits, as expected. The angel food reveals itself to be soft, marvelously airy, and infinitely moist. While its texture is beyond reproach, the same cannot be said of its flavor, as the taste of passion fruit is discreet to the point of going unnoticed. We therefore find ourselves with a classic, minimally sweet, angel food.
The angel food is hollow in the center, with the filling contained in a chimney-like opening. In the banana-passion fruit cream, we mostly notice the former’s unctuosity and the latter’s flavor. It is in the fruit puree, however, that the flavor of banana balances out that of mango – while at the same time adding fruit textures to the center of the cake. The sweetness of the banana nicely tempers the acidity of the mango, making for a successful combination. As for the Chantilly cream, it is light and barely sweet, and carries a characteristic milky taste. Finally, the decoration of this angel cake–dollops of lime, mango and passion fruit jelly sprinkled with lime zest– is not only pleasant for the eyes, it also brings a highly welcome freshness and tartness to the cake as a whole.
While we could have feared a certain monotony of textures in an angel cake of this sort, our fears turned out to be unfounded. Indeed, this Exotic Fruit Angel Cake by the pastry shop Ciel offers remarkable variations – from the moistness of the angel food, to the unctuosity of the creams, to the characteristic texture of the pureed fruits. While crunchy elements are absent, the whole remains well thought-out, and the flavor pairings – despite being so numerous– are coherent and successful. We are easily won over by this dessert, even though the neutral angel food would gain from a more pronounced flavor, to better accompany the surrounding tastes.
Score: 4.1/5 Excellent
3 rue Monge, 75005 Paris, France
Open from Sunday to Friday from 11am to 8pm, and on Saturday from 11am to 9pm.
Tel : +33 1 43 29 40 78