At dawn, as the memories of the drunken night start fading into oblivion, we naively cling on to the hope of prolonging yesterday’s now indistinct pleasures. The night has already washed our hearts from the emotions that rocked us, and the new day brings with it promises of new pleasures. It is amongst the aromas of a warm, buttery, crisp pastry that we wish to emerge. And so it is to Guy Savoy’s new shop, headed by the pastry chef Christian Boudard and simply called Goût de Brioche, that we head to start the day, where we chose a flaky brioche incrusted with candied fruit.
This brioche is composed of a brioche dough worked in the manner of a puff pastry, in which candied fruits have been incorporated.
The Flaky Brioche with Candied Fruit by Goût de Brioche has a diameter of 65 mm and a height of 69 mm. The specimen we purchased weights 110 grams and costs 5.50€.
The first smell that wafts from the brioche is that of butter, accompanied by that of candied fruit. Upon touching the flaky dough, one immediately notices how rich in butter it is – indeed the pastry positively, tirelessly, oozes butter. Nestled in a little wooden casing, the brioche is isolated by a little piece of baking parchment lined with a transparent plastic wrap, to prevent the butter from seeping around the pastry. Yet the former is so abundant that it manages to escape nonetheless.
We recognize a few candied fruit by their taste: the orange peels which bring a touch of bitterness, the strawberries on which the achenes can still be spotted, and the implausibly red candied cherry. The fruit are of course very sweet, but the brioche dough is much less so, leading to a certain overall balance.
The butter-rich dough, whose slippery, shiny surface is covered in minute puffed blisters, forms a slightly crisp crust on the upper part of the brioche spilling out of the wooden casing. The candied fruit in this part have been blackened by their stay in the oven, but do not taste of burnt. They are nestled in one of the innumerable strata of the lush flaky dough. By contrast, the dough is much softer under the crust of the first flaky layer, as well as in the whole lower part of the brioche, where it becomes a lot more compact.
This pastry is perhaps amongst the richest in butter that we have tasted so far. And while this may appear to be desirable, we believe this pastry would lose none of its appeal by being slightly lighter in butter. Even aesthetically, it would be more pleasant to find the brioche cased in a dry receptacle rather than in a piece of baking parchment, which slowly gathers melted butter. The center of the brioche also seems very soft, and we regret the absence of a more distinct flakiness. Only on the surface and on the top part does the specimen we purchased offer an admirable flakiness. The candied fruits bring a welcome added flavor and texture. They are present in sufficient quantity and their sweetness is not overpowering, which we appreciate. In addition, one can tell that all the ingredients used in the pastry are of high quality.
Score: 3.7/5 Good
54 rue Mazarine, 75006 Paris
Open from Wednesday to Sunday from 8 am to 7 pm.
Tel: 01 40 46 91 67