To those whose sworn enemy is gluten: we have not forgotten you, and today we audition a new pastry which is free of this protein which so inconveniences you. The Red Pistachio Tartlet is a creation of the pastry shop-cum-tearoom Helmut Newcake, a reference in the world of gluten free products. What do we make of it, and what are its distinct features? The answer lies in our detailed report.
This “tartlet” is in reality a pistachio financier (a moist, springy cake made with almond flour), topped with a majestic mound of fresh redcurrants. We are informed that it is gluten free, with emphasis also placed on the fact that it is dairy-free. This is quite a marketing ploy, as the only dairy product the financiers contain is butter which is very poor in lactose.
This Red Pistachio Redcurrant Tartlet by Helmut Newcake has a diameter of 61 mm and a height of 53 mm. The specimen we purchased weights 97 grams and costs 4 euros.
The redcurrant caviar sitting on top of the financier holds thanks to a discrete jelly – pink, translucent and very sweet. The berries are fresh, pop in the mouth, and are present in abundance – which is certainly aesthetically pleasing, though not strictly indispensable in terms of flavor. It is, however, a shame to see this cake forced into a box which is clearly too small for it, and squashes the redcurrants. The green crumbs which we find amongst the berries appear to be broken off bits of the financier. The latter is very tasty, nicely moist and rather dense. It does not have the very light crust which can be found on the surface of some financiers, and is instead covered with a thin layer of jelly. It has a discrete pistachio flavor, is intensely green, and shines with its perfectly uniform baking. Moreover, in a blind tasting, one would not necessarily detect that this cake is gluten-free.
This Red Pistachio Tartlet by Helmut Newcake can be enjoyed quite aside from any gluten-related considerations – in fact, one could easily forget the absence of gluten in it. The illusion is almost complete, and for some that is the very sign that Helmut Newcake’s mission has been successfully fulfilled. The cake’s texture resembles that of a classic financier, and we are tickled by its extravagant mound of redcurrants. Simple but very good, this desert accomplishes a technical prowess by successfully tackling the gluten restriction, and thus earns our high approval.
Note : 4/5 Excellent
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