After having experienced the bakery cum pastry shop Des Gâteaux & Du Pain’s Japanese inspired Gyokuro, we continue with Asian flavors with the shop’s Kashmir dessert. With its name and flavors, this pastry, created by Claire Damon, evokes India and its saffron fields. With such a promising décor, what else can we do but recline back and nonchalantly taste this dessert?
Minimally decorated with a small medallion made of an orange marmalade of sorts, Kashmir is built on a moist almond cookie base, topped with a vanilla mousse dome. This dome is covered in an orangey-yellow powder, and within it hides a compote of Sicilian oranges and saffron-infused dates, as well as a saffron cream. The pastry shop’s name is printed on a large, rather imposing, cardboard rectangle set on top of the dessert, which would benefit from being replaced with a smaller logo.
Kashmir by Des Gâteaux & Du Pain – in its individual format – has a diameter of 70 mm and a height of 43 mm. The specimen we purchased weights 127 grams and costs 6.50 euros.
We notice that the almond cookie base is indeed very moist and tasty, but is also humid and soaked in a sweet syrup which gives it a somewhat pasty consistency. The mousse has a discreet vanilla flavor and a slightly compact texture, which allows it to detach itself in a single piece from the rest of the dessert. Despite this, we enjoy the discreetness of its flavor, which enable the pastry’s other exotic perfumes to shine. We thus discern the characteristic flavor of saffron in the unctuous cream hidden within the dome – in which we even spot the flower’s red pistil. The well-balanced saffron perfume stays long on one’s palate and in one’s nostrils. Finally, we find the orange and saffron-infused date compote interesting, though it would taste even better if it contained more dates – as these undeniably bring much flavor and a nice play of texture to the dessert.
The jury is split on the verdict. While we salute this dessert’s exoticism and its pleasant pairing of flavors, we remain slightly dissatisfied by the pasty texture of the cookie base, the compactness of the vanilla mousse, and the discreetness of dates in the dessert as a whole. Are these imperfections exceptional, attributable to having sat too long in the store window? Regardless, Kashmir is a beautiful and tasty pastry which is certainly worth the detour, but which still has room for improvement in its production method, all the while retaining the orange-saffron-date pairing to which it owes much of its charm.
Score : 3/5 Good
63 Boulevard Pasteur, 75015 Paris, France