It is amongst the splendors of the Mandarin Oriental in Paris that we find a memorable lemon cheesecake, created by pastry chef Pierre Mathieu. This cheesecake comes in a finely decorated individual round shape. Its external appearance is very carefully thought out, and we also notice the attentive choice of trappings to protect this little gem.
On its surface, we find a dome of tart Granny smith apple jelly, decorated with a minute piece of silver-leaf. This jelly, which is compact yet still very easy to slice, confers an original and precious aspect to the dessert. Around it, we find another jelly, which is lemon favored and sliced in thin layers. This solid jelly is set on top of a lemon-infused cream cheese filling. The base is made of a cashew-nut shortcrust biscuit.
This cheesecake is remarkably light. It is offered in a well-sized portion and is anything but a heavy and pasty dessert. It has a diameter of 80 mm and a height of 30 mm (+15 mm for the jelly dome). The specimen we purchased weights 148 grams and costs 8 euros.
The two types of jelly blend together very nicely in the mouth, and the acidic aromas combine favorably with the cream cheese. The flavor of cashew nuts can be felt in the sweet and crunchy shortbread crust. The contrast between the texture of the cream cheese and the crust is pleasant on the palate, and increases the pleasure of consuming such a treat.
The lemon cheesecake is revisited here by Pierre Mathieu with a balanced and tempered hand. It is a fine product, attractive in its form and delicious in its pairing of flavors. It is one of those rare desserts which evokes perfectly thought out, coherent and flawlessly executed workmanship.
Score: 4/5 Excellent
251 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, France