Let us abandon ourselves in a beautiful white bed awash in a sea of fluffy gauze and soft fabric. Let it all go and fall back on this feathery pillow to catch our breath after a turbulent night, and stay forever submerged under these silky sheets. Let us wallow in this infinite softness, eyes closed, a faint smile of satistfaction floating on our lips. Ah, could we ever hope to find such voluptunesness anywhere else? Probably not – except perhaps in a tender korean-style chiffon cake. Always in search of novel sensations, it is at Borissou, a newly opened Franco-Korean pastry shop, that we seize a matcha-flavored chiffon cake, white as snow. The time of judgement has come.
This dessert is composed a moist matcha green tea-flavored chiffon cake, sliced horizontally in the middle and slathered with Chantilly cream in between as well as all around its exterior. It has a hollow center, and its surface is lightly dusted with matcha powder.
The Match Green Tea Chiffon Cake by Borissou has a maximum diameter of 95 mm and a height of 60 mm. The specimen we purchased, which is suitable for two people, weights 174 grams and costs 7.00€.
The cake emits a very discreet perfume, the smell of matcha tea being barely perceptible. It is entirely covered in Chantilly cream, which also serves as a decorative element, with additional thick touches slathered on the top and edges of the cake. The cream is light and airy, and does not give the impression of being greasy on the palate. Quite sweet, it possesses that milky taste characteristic of Chantilly, and is present in abundant quantity.
Underneath the cream, we discover the moist chiffon cake, sliced in half. Its green shade is reminiscent of that of matcha. When we cut through it, however, we notice it does not have the springiness and elasticity which normally characterizes chiffon cakes. Its texture is more akin to a classic genoise, breaking apart easily. The matcha flavor goes surprisingly unnoticed.
While Chantilly cream brings lightness and softness to any dessert, it is critical use it in moderation, lest it stifle other flavors. This disequilibrium is unfortunately present in the Match Green Tea Chiffon Cake by Borissou, where the green tea flavor disappears behind this avalanche of cream, and goes unnoticed. We wish the palette of flavors were richer – it would, for example, have benefited from the addition of a fruity element, such as litchi or raspberry. The cake’s workmanship is nevertheless pleasing to the eyes, carefully and prettily decorated as it is with these slathers of Chantilly.
Score: 3.2/5 Passable
93 rue du Commerce, 75015 Paris, France
Open from Tuesday to Saturday from 7.30 am to 8 pm and on Sunday from 7.30 am to 2 pm.
Tel : +331 48 28 65 86
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