It is difficult to grow tired of a classic as delightful as the Saint-Honoré, especially given all the variations of this dessert which can be found today. Unlike Philippe Conticini from la Pâtisserie des Rêves, Mori Yoshida opted to maintain the traditional shape of the Saint-Honoré, of which he offers a pistachio and raspberry flavored version. We obtained one in his beautiful – and resolutely contemporary – shop, and we examine it with our usual rigor.
This Saint-Honoré is composed of a circular base made of flaky pastry, on which are set three choux (cream puffs) covered in caramel and filled with a raspberry-flavored cream. In between the choux hides a heart of raspberry coulis, and the whole is partially covered by an elegant swirl of pistachio chiboust cream, on which a few candied pistachios are perched.
It has a base diameter of 80 mm and a height of 70 mm. The specimen we purchased weights 121 grams and costs 5.80 euros.
This chiboust cream is somewhat thick, as is usual in a Saint-Honoré, has an excellent pistachio flavor, and has the benefit of not being overly sweet. The layer of caramel on the choux is nicely crystalized and of the right thickness, which enables it to easily crack between the teeth. These strokes of caramel are found in just the right amount in this dessert: present enough to notice them, while sufficiently discrete not to influence the pistachio and raspberry flavors. The choux are, as could be expected, slightly humid, which can be attributed to the very principle of the Saint-Honoré, which requires they be in constant contact with the cream. They are parsimoniously filled with a raspberry cream, whose bold flavor dialogues nicely with the suaveness of the pistachio. Between the choux is nested the liquid raspberry coulis, which adds a note of acidity and brings dynamism to the whole composition. As for the flaky pastry base, it remains true to the classic form, with an excellent flakiness, well mastered degree of cooking, and pronounced buttery flavor. It does not appear to be sweet at all, and simply provides a neutral base for the Saint-Honoré.
The Pistachio Raspberry Saint-Honoré by Mori Yoshida is an excellent classic rendering of this dessert, which nevertheless introduces slightly more original, well-matched flavors. The pleasant textures of all of its components, combined with its frank favors, make this treat simultaneously decadent and refined, and deserves to be recommended.
Score: 4/5 Excellent
65 avenue de Breteuil, 75007 Paris, France