Who cares whether we are travelling from Paris to Brest or from Paris to New York, as long as the journey is a delicious one? For we know how to find pleasure in each moment of voluptuousness, and the journey which blends the tenderness of a generously buttery choux with the indulgence of praline cannot fail to pique our interest. At Angelina’s, the Paris-New York trades the almond and hazelnut of classic praline for the American pecan. This is reason enough to inspect it from top to bottom.
This pastry is composed of a choux pastry covered with crisp craquelin, filled with a pecan praline cream and a sheet of crunchy praline. This composition is decorated with a whole pecan kernel.
The Paris-New York by Angelina has a diameter of 72 mm and a height of 63 mm. The specimen we purchased weights 107 grams and costs 6.70€.
A discreet smell of praline rises from the dessert. It is made of a rather soft choux pastry which, while fresh and certainly not soggy, is nevertheless not very crisp – despite the presence of craquelin on its surface. The craquelin is buttery but not very sweet, and crumbles in the mouth.
The pecan praline cream is pleasant, and we indeed recognize clearly and distinctively the particular flavor of pecan. This rather sweet cream is textured by the pecan powder in it, which rasps against the tongue. Unctuous and thick, it is also slightly sticky on the palate. It also emits a vague flavor of gianduja or chocolate, which leads us to wonder – does it contain either of these?
At the bottom of the choux, inside, lies a crunchy sheet of praline. Distinctively flaky without being rustic, this praline is also made with pecan – though this is less noticeable than in the cream, likely due to its strong smoky notes.
By opting for a Paris-New York at Angelina’s, we are certain to have selected one of the shop’s safe choices. This dessert is simultaneously indulgent and refined. The flavor of praline cream is spot on, and its generous quantity allows us to fully appreciate it. The crunchy praline adds a texture which would otherwise have been missed in the dessert, thus enabling the use of a softer and generously buttery choux dough. This dessert contains a limited number of components, which allows our attention to focus on a single, principal flavor. The way it is executed and assembled underlines the notable care given to the quality of the product.
Score: 4.2/5 Excellent
226 rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris, France
Open from Monday to Thursday from 7.30am to 7pm, Friday from 7.30am to 7.30pm, and week-ends and public holidays from 8.30am to 7.30pm.
Tel: +331 42 60 82 00