After so much coffee and chocolate, let us refresh our senses with a lime tart with limes from Menton, la Mentonnaise, offered by the Patisserie En Quatre. This is one of our favorite French desserts. Let us see how the version created by Eric Barnerias fares in our rigorous test.
This prettily decorated tart is simply composed of a sweet shortcrust pastry topped generously with Menton lime cream. The surface is covered with little peaks of frothy lime cream, on which three lime-flavored marshmallows are arranged. A small square of dark chocolate completes this ornamentation.
La Mentonnaise from Patisserie en Quatre by Eric Barnerias has a diameter of 68 mm and a height of 40 mm, marshmallows included. The specimen we purchased weights 93 grams and costs 4.5 euros.
The lime marshmallows set on the surface are slightly sticky, only lightly sweet, and very acidic. With their airy, not too elastic texture, they are a herald of things to come in the rest of the tart. The frothy peaks of cream are relatively abundant, and while they are not particularly light, their lime flavor is tamer than that found in the marshmallow. It has a pleasant, subtly milky taste, reminiscent of fresh cream. As for the lime cream below, it is spread in a generous, 21 mm-thick layer, infinitely unctuous and highly sweet. Delicisouly rich wthout being heavy, excellent in taste, it melts in one’s mouth as it releases citrusy notes which, while being pronounced, are not as tart as in the marshmallow. The sweet shortecrst pastry, which we come to last, is perfectly and unformely baked. Crispy, thin and not at all soggy, it has a buttery flavor which – unsuprisngly- pairs well witht the lime’s freshness. Overall, the transitions between textures and acidities are simple but effective, with one’s teeth first biting into the frothy cream peaks, before sinking into the much more unctuous cream filling. The two creams blend easily in one’s mouth, thus balancing each other out in terms of sweetness.
This generous dessert, perfectly executed with a touch of originalyt, testifies to Eric Barnerias’ fine work on balance and accuracy of flavors. We were pleasantly surprised by his Mentonnaise and we recommend it to all the lemon tart militants who scour Paris in search of the best one. This one should be on your list.
Score: 4/5 Excellent
120 rue saint Charles, 75015 Paris, France