Yes, gluttony is a sin. But let us flout the rules of morality and indulge our desires. Why resist, and for which futile cause shall we deny ourselves such delicious earthly pleasures? In Sébastien Dégardin’s haunt, it is without hesitation that we select the Pêcher Mignon, an enticing pastry which showcases the best of that the season has to offer.
This desert is composed of an almond shortcrust case containing a layer of almond paste, a red-poppy flavored cream, and a redcurrant jelly. All of this is topped with chunks of poached peach, and decorated with a sheet of white chocolate.
Pêcher Mignon by Sébastien Dégardin has a diameter of 64 mm and a height of 45 mm. The specimen we purchased weights 110 grams and costs 5.00€.
A pleasant scent of peach floats around this dessert, accompanied by whiffs of butter and almond. The cube-shaped peach morsels appear to have been lightly poached and have a nice light pink hue. The fruits have a mellow flavor, and retain their original texture. They float in a sort of transparent, slightly viscous jelly.
Beneath these fruits, we discover a poppy-scented cream. Airy and light on the palate, it has a discrete floral flavor and is only lightly sweet. The cream is boosted by the acidic touch provided by the redcurrant jelly, nestled at the center of the dessert. However, we find that that this jelly is too liquid when one is slicing the cake.
The base of the tart hides a surprise, in the form an almond paste of sorts, akin to marzipan. Its granular texture spreads pleasantly on the palate, and brings a nice contrast with the silkiness of the poppy cream. As for the shortcrust pastry, it is admirably thin, and is covered with a fine layer of white chocolate to prevent it from becoming soggy. This detail proves indispensable is such a cream-laden dessert. The crust is crisp and crumbly, and is encrusted with almond splinters – some of which are only roughly ground, thus imparting a rustic look to the dessert.
Pêcher Mignon by Sébastien Dégardin is a successful combination of peach, poppy, and redcurrant. Its flavors are interesting and its textures varied – though we feel the dessert’s inner core is excessively runny. The flavors announced in the dessert’s description are indeed present, in an equilibrium which nevertheless allows for their individual expression. Redcurrant is wisely used with parsimony, thus allowing the more discreet flavors to come out. We feel that the white chocolate decoration may not be needed in this type of dessert, and neither is the excessively abundant transparent jelly found on the fruits. A decoration recalling the poppy flower, for example, would be of the most pleasing effect.
Score: 3.8/5 Very good
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