It’s not always necessary – nor desirable – to say too much to make oneself understood. A sign, a shudder, or a knowing look can be sufficient. Some of life’s pleasures can only be confessed in half spoken words. There is a fruit which Men have turned into a symbol of forbidden pleasures, wrongly believing that it was so in fables. We, on the other hand, bite into it with passion! This fruit is found in this pastry, where it is barely named, discreetly hinted at in a single syllable which remains hanging on one’s lips. “Pom’” is the name of this dessert offered by Nanan – three little letters who’s diminutiveness ring of false modesty, and only enflame our curiosity (“Pom” is an abridged version of pomme, the French word for apple).
This dessert is composed of a moist hazelnut cake, topped with a Tonka bean-flavored cream, in whose center hides a dollop of apple compote. The surface is glazed in a transparent jelly and topped with caramelized apples, and the whole dessert is encircled with a soft sponge cake.
Pom’ by Nanan has a dimeter of 65 mm and a height of 56 mm. The specimen we purchased weights 95 grams and costs 5.50€.
A discreet lemony smell emanates from the dessert, unexpected but pleasant. It appears that the source of this smell is in fact the little mound of caramelized apples sitting atop the cake. These apples melt in one’s mouth and seem to have wisely been enriched with a touch of lemon, which gives them a zestier flavor. The apple mousse, which makes up most of the cake’s volume, is extremely light and nicely airy. Its taste is faithful to the original fruit and is enhanced by a well-placed dash of vanilla.
At the heart of the mousse hides a fine grained, smooth apple compote, which also contains this welcome touch of acidity found in the caramelized apples. Once again, we are glad to find the distinct presence of vanilla, visible in the profusion of minute black seeds which we so cherish, and which make the world a better place. As for the Tonka bean cream, airy and only lightly sweet, its mildness makes for a harmonious companion to the apple’s tartness.
The disk-shaped hazelnut cake is perceptibly sweeter than the rest of the dessert’s components. Its moistness makes it lump together in the mouth, thus bringing out the distinctive texture and flavor of hazelnut powder. Finally, the sponge cake encircling the dessert is uniformly thin, and cooked perfectly homogenously throughout. Not at all soggy, it retains its shape nicely and presents an admirably airy crumb. It has a discreet almond taste.
Overall, we wish to underline the judicious and well balanced pairings found in Pom’, created by the pastry shop Nanan. The apples are made tangier with a touch of lemon, the Tonka cream balances out this acidity with its mildness, and the vanilla remains ever-present in the background – a background which adds nuance and brings the various flavors together. The textures are flawless, and the techniques well mastered. Finally, the care and attention brought to the assemblage of this dessert and the elegance of its colors – which stay clear of any flashy hues – only reinforce our impression of a neatly executed dessert.
38 rue Keller, 75011 Paris
Open from Wednesday to Friday from 8.30 am to 8 pm, Saturday and Sunday from 10 am to 8 pm.
Tel: +33 9 83 41 38 49
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