Baillardran, who specializes in canelé – a typical dessert from Bordeaux – offers us a rum-free and vanilla-enriched version of this emblematic pastry. Its external appearance remains that of a classic canelé, but its taste is different.
This little cake is made of a simple dough composed of flour, eggs, milk, sugar, and vanilla. Given that these ingredients are even inscribed on the cake’s delicate packaging, it becomes quickly apparent that that the secret of a good canelé rests not in its ingredients, but rather in its making. The specimen we purchased has a height of 50 mm and a diameter of 42 mm. It weighs 59 grams and costs 3.50 euros.
On the cake’s surface, we find the thin, shiny and caramelized crust characteristic of the canelé. It is perfectly made and delightfully crisp. Inside, the honeycomb crumb is nicely moist, and has the humidity and perfectly mastered elasticity characteristic of a proper canelé. The taste of organic vanilla from Madagascar is present in every mouthful but without being overpowering, and one can spot the vanilla seeds scattered throughout the dark dough.
While this canelé is unquestionably very tasty, we probably prefer the classic version containing rum, the latter is in part what makes the canelé such a distinctive pastry. Nevertheless, the alcohol-free “pure vanilla” version proposed by Baillardran remains a perfectly convincing and intelligent alternative for those wishing to vary their pleasures. Its taste is sufficiently different to be offered as a parallel product, and we are curious to see whether the pastry shop will start offering several other canelé variations in the future.
Score: 3/5 Good
12 boulevard des Capucines, 75009 Paris, France