Let us cast away banality: sometimes, what we want is originality and exotic desserts. Japanese pastries are ideal study subjects for such a science, so let us walk determinedly towards to the Japanese pastry shop Yamazaki, to taste its Yuki-Musume. What hides behind this mysterious name?
This Japanese dessert is composed of a Chantilly cream flavored with matcha green tea, an anko paste, and a sponge cake – all wrapped inside a rice flour dough sprinkled with matcha tea powder.
Yuki-Musume by Yamazaki has a diameter of 78 mm and a height of 40 mm. The specimen we purchased weights 106 grams and costs 4.50€.
The rice flour dough which envelops the dessert reveals itself to be elastic and gummy, but only faintly sweet. This wrapping is not perfectly round, giving the impression that it was closed in haste – greater care put into the dessert’s assemblage would have been appreciated. Nevertheless, we do note that the dough encompasses the entire dessert, and is not simply laid on top.
The matcha-flavored Chantilly cream makes up the majority of the filling. Faintly sweet, it has a distinctively milky taste, infused with a strong matcha flavor. Matcha is also noticeable in the texture of the cream, in which we perceive a powdery presence which rasps against one’s tongue and palate. Matcha tea aficionados will enjoy this cream, which has a faint iodized taste and gives off a slight bitterness on the finish.
The anko found underneath the cream is in reality a red bean paste. Equally low in sugar, it has the texture of a fine puree. It tastes perceptibly of red bean, but is present in very small quantity compared to the matcha cream. Finally, the sponge cake found at the base is thin and moist, and seems to be enhanced with vanilla.
On the whole, we find an imbalance in the flavors of this Yuki-Musume, in favor of match green tea. Indeed, its predominance in terms of volume makes it the primary component of this pastry, and masks the flavors of the anko and the sponge cake. Increasing the quantity of anko and sponge cake would, in addition, improve the hold and structure of the dessert – which is by constitution very soft. The rice dough has an original, pleasant-to-chew texture; the textures of all the other components are similarly enjoyable. A few minor modifications to allow all of the components to distinctively express themselves would greatly improve this dessert, which is certainly not lacking in originality.
Score: 3.6/5 Good
6 Chaussée de la Muette, 75016 Paris, France
Open from 8 am to 7 pm every day, except January 1st, May 1st, and Sundays during the month of August.
Tel: +33 1 40 50 19 19